This topic, being outside my Nerdy wheelhouse, started as a question asked via Google Forms in the Nerdy for my SeneSisters FB group. Question: “Are all of the “may contain” ingredients listed naturally derived pigments, or are they artificial? Can they be listed as ‘red dye #’? .” I was also curious about this, knowing that pigments can be listed under many different names, so I jumped right in Googling! 1.5 days later I had 2+ pages of information on 11+ color index numbers from a variety of internet sources. This blog post was born! Enjoy!
But first, I want to say THANK YOU to fellow Nerdy SeneSister, Dr. Christina Mossaad, for providing her dye-namic wisdom!!
Answer: Color index numbers listed under may contain ingredients in LipSense include synthetic & naturally derived pigments. Yes, some can be listed as red dye #.
Key words: pigments, colorants, may contain, color index, red dye #.
More information related to toxicity, human carcinogens and bio-accumulation can be found at www.ewg.org – they also provide a list of alternative names. Wikipedia is great place for general info.
LipSense may contain the following:
CI 77163: Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) is an inorganic compound of bismuth. It is a lustrous white solid used since antiquity, notably in ancient Egypt. It is odorless & sinks in water. Bismuth the element is a brittle metal with a silvery white color when freshly produced, but surface oxidation can give it a pink tinge. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Bismuth_oxychloride#section=Top
CI 77891: Titanium dioxide, also known as titanium(IV) oxide or titania, is the naturally occurring oxide of titanium, chemical formula TiO2. When used as a pigment, it is called titanium white, Pigment White 6 (PW6), or CI 77891. It is used in a variety of products including pressed and loose powders, as a UV filter or whitening agent. It is a possible human carcinogen only for products that may be aerosolized (airborne) (ewg.org). TiO2 does not penetrate healthy skin and does not pose any risk from skin exposure, it is also very effective sunscreen. Lets talk about this for a second! Hypothetically, titanium dioxide is responsible for the sun protection provided by LipSense. Lets also assume- different shades are comprised of varying amounts of this bright white/opaque pigment and do not offer the same amount of sun protection. Titania may, in fact, be employed as a base color in LipSense, due to its ability to provide an opaque background for all other pigments to pop against. If true, all shades except icicle provide some amount of sun protection!
CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77492, & CI 77499: Iron oxides are chemical compounds composed of iron and oxygen. There are sixteen known iron oxides and oxyhydroxides. It occurs in nature as the mineral magnetite. Common rust is a form of iron oxide. Colors commonly available are in the “earthy” end of the yellow/orange/red/brown/black range. All iron oxides used in cosmetics are synthetic per the US FDA CFR (U.S. FDA- Listed in CFR 21 73.2250). Because the chemical inputs in the synthesis can be standardized and controlled, the resulting iron oxides have a predictable safety profile. Oxides formed in a natural, uncontrolled setting are often contaminated with heavy metals and the particle size and shape can be varied by the method of production.
CI 45410: Phloxine or Ploxine B (Red dye 27 & 28) is a water-soluble red dye used for coloring drugs and cosmetics. This dye is not approved for use in cosmetics used around the eyes (ewg.org). This is probably a good time to advise against using LipSense as eyeliner!
CI 17200: Sodium laureth-13 carboxylate is D&C Red 33. Also known as Acid Red 33, or simply Red 33, it is used as a colorant in mouthwashes, shampoos, cosmetics, and hair dyes. D&C Red 33 is a synthetic dye produced from petroleum or coal tar sources; this dye is FDA-approved for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
CI 15850: Liothol Rubine BK, AKA disodium salt pigment red 57, pigment red 57, disodium salt, red 6, red lake 6 & red lake 7 is a reddish synthetic dye. It has the appearance of a red powder and magenta when printed. It is slightly soluble in hot water, insoluble in cold water, and insoluble in ethanol. It is used to dye plastics, paints, printing inks, and for textile printing. When used as a food dye, it has E number E180. This colorant has been completely banned in some countries. EWG.org says this additive is banned or found unsafe for use in cosmetics. This was alarming! But, further investigation found it’s not approved by the FDA in cosmetics intended for use around the eye. See FDA Important Alert 53-06, issued 6/23/2017 @ https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/cms_ia/importalert_130.html. Again, let’s not use LipSense around our eyes. Please!!
CI 19140: Tartrazine is a synthetic lemon yellow dye primarily used as a food coloring. It is also known as E number E102, C.I. 19140, FD&C Yellow 5, Acid Yellow 23, Food Yellow 4, and trisodium salt. Tartrazine is a commonly used color all over the world, mainly for yellow. Cosmetics, such as eyeshadow, blush, face powder and foundation, lipstick, etc. – even those that are primarily pink or purple. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Tartrazine
CI 42090: Brilliant Blue FCF (Blue 1) is an organic compound classified as a triarylmethane dye, reflecting its chemical structure. Known under various commercial names, it is a colorant for foods and other substances. It has the appearance of a reddish-blue powder. As a blue color, Brilliant Blue FCF is often found in ice cream, canned processed peas, packet soups, bottled food colorings, icings, ice pops, blue raspberry flavored products, dairy products, sweets and drinks, especially the liqueur Blue Curaçao. It is also used in soaps, shampoos, mouthwash and other hygiene and cosmetics applications. In soil science, Brilliant Blue is applied in tracing studies to visualize infiltration and water distribution in the soil. In the United States, of the two approved blue dyes (the other being Indigo carmine, or FD&C Blue #2), Brilliant Blue FCF is the more common of the two. This dye was originally derived from coal tar, although most manufacturers now make it from an oil base.
CL 45370: also known as 4′,5′-dibromofluorandiol, disodium salt, 4,5-dibromofluorescein, acid orange 11, disodium salt 4’-5’, orange 201, orange No. 201. Orange 201 is a synthetic dye produced from petroleum or coal tar sources. This dye is FDA-approved for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
CI 77007: Ultramarine, a deep blue, was originally made by grinding lapis lazuli (a deep blue metamorphic rock) into a powder. Ultramarine was the finest and most expensive blue used by Renaissance painters. It remained an extremely expensive pigment until a synthetic ultramarine was invented in 1826. Raw materials used in the manufacturing of synthetic ultramarine include: iron-free kaolin or other type of pure clay, anhydrous (meaning it contains no water) sodium sulfate or sodium carbonate, powdered sulfur and powdered charcoal. Synthetic ultramarine is more vivid than natural ultramarine and very cheap, is largely used for wall painting, the printing of paper hangings and calico, etc., and also as a corrective for the yellowish tinge often present in things meant to be white, such as linen, paper, etc. Also often found in makeup such as mascaras or eye shadows.
Reading of interest:
More information on identifying ingredients @ https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/IngredientNames/default.htm
Find more information on FDA approved color additives @ https://www.fda.gov/forindustry/coloradditives/coloradditiveinventories/ucm106626.htm